.:`=-~rANdOm~`-=:. Game Servers (Read Only) > Discussion

Help: Deck Repair

<< < (2/3) > >>

Sabb:

--- Quote from: Cake Faice on September 16, 2013, 06:18:39 PM ---Well you can find a small orbital sander for around $60 (dunno how much that is in CAD, prolly same price), but once you sand everything down, definitely apply some wood stain like bright cedar to bring out the color in the cedar, along with the lacquer.

--- End quote ---
A while ago I actually bought a decently expensive Bosch orbital sander that was on sale for like $100 or something but with the size of the deck I'd be literally doing it for probably 24 hours straight in all so idk.

Xrain:
I have redone decks before. Painting ceder is a sin, If it were me I would just pull up the pressure treated and replace it with ceder, and then use the pressure treated on any support boards that need replacing. But are you sure it is ceder? file off a bit off the end and smell the shavings to make sure it smells correctly. If you don't know what ceder smells like go to the hardware store and smell some its pretty unmistakeable. Replacing deck boards is pretty easy, its easiest if you have a impact driver like this one http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-combo-packs-20v-max-combo-packs-dck286d2.aspx ; it drives 3-4 in. nails like butter. ( I just got that set last week :D)

As for finishing, painting decks is a pain in the ass, you will have to do it every year or two since the paint will flake up no matter how expensive it is. The best option is deck stain, it stays on the boards much better, and looks much nicer.

You guys are out of your minds if you are wanting to sand a whole deck with an orbital sander, they actually make sanders for sanding decks... Called a floor sander just go rent one from home depot or lows or a local tool rental. You can sand the whole thing standing up and it has a much, much larger sanding surface. Then use an orbital sander for the places you cant reach, and use a belt sander for the railings. You will be much happier in life this way.

If you want to do it correctly, go and get a pressure washer, and use it to blast away the rest of the paint, that way you can get all of the paint between the cracks and such. Then let it dry for a day or so, then use the floor sander, and other sanders to refinish the boards. Once you get a nice and relatively smooth surface (don't go too smooth otherwise it will be like walking on a ice rink when it rains) use a large foam roller to roll the stain on, and then go around with a hand brush to get between all of the boards and any holidays you made with the roller. Remember to do all of the sides of the boards you can at (don't forget about the bottom if you can!), since any exposed areas will just make your decking rot.

It's a lot of work, but once you get it done you will be much happier in the long run since you wont have tons of problems crop up just a few years down the road.

Sabb:

--- Quote from: Xrain on September 16, 2013, 11:05:58 PM ---I have redone decks before. Painting ceder is a sin, If it were me I would just pull up the pressure treated and replace it with ceder, and then use the pressure treated on any support boards that need replacing. But are you sure it is ceder? file off a bit off the end and smell the shavings to make sure it smells correctly. If you don't know what ceder smells like go to the hardware store and smell some its pretty unmistakeable. Replacing deck boards is pretty easy, its easiest if you have a impact driver like this one http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-combo-packs-20v-max-combo-packs-dck286d2.aspx ; it drives 3-4 in. nails like butter. ( I just got that set last week :D)

As for finishing, painting decks is a pain in the ass, you will have to do it every year or two since the paint will flake up no matter how expensive it is. The best option is deck stain, it stays on the boards much better, and looks much nicer.

You guys are out of your minds if you are wanting to sand a whole deck with an orbital sander, they actually make sanders for sanding decks... Called a floor sander just go rent one from home depot or lows or a local tool rental. You can sand the whole thing standing up and it has a much, much larger sanding surface. Then use an orbital sander for the places you cant reach, and use a belt sander for the railings. You will be much happier in life this way.

If you want to do it correctly, go and get a pressure washer, and use it to blast away the rest of the paint, that way you can get all of the paint between the cracks and such. Then let it dry for a day or so, then use the floor sander, and other sanders to refinish the boards. Once you get a nice and relatively smooth surface (don't go too smooth otherwise it will be like walking on a ice rink when it rains) use a large foam roller to roll the stain on, and then go around with a hand brush to get between all of the boards and any holidays you made with the roller. Remember to do all of the sides of the boards you can at (don't forget about the bottom if you can!), since any exposed areas will just make your decking rot.

It's a lot of work, but once you get it done you will be much happier in the long run since you wont have tons of problems crop up just a few years down the road.

--- End quote ---
Ya I'm certain the majority of it's cedar, already did all that. Unfortunately I won't be buying any impact drivers or anything since it's not my money being spent on the repair, I'm just doing it for my mom and she's funding what I absolutely need. I'm only laying down about 4 or 5 boards any ways and only have one more to finish today. Nailing goes along quickly. So I probably won't be going all out and renting a floor sander which is what I was referring to earlier unless my mom actually wants it to be all done perfectly. The deck I'm doing is in our backyard any ways and is only visible by us so I don't think she cares if it's a tad rough.

About the stain though, you wouldn't normally stain the boards before putting them on would you? Because there's really no way for it to be stained on the bottom while they're down and I noticed none of the boards I pulled up had any stain on the bottom (from when the deck was originally build). Thanks for the help btw.

Xrain:

--- Quote from: Sabb on September 17, 2013, 04:53:47 AM ---Ya I'm certain the majority of it's cedar, already did all that. Unfortunately I won't be buying any impact drivers or anything since it's not my money being spent on the repair, I'm just doing it for my mom and she's funding what I absolutely need. I'm only laying down about 4 or 5 boards any ways and only have one more to finish today. Nailing goes along quickly. So I probably won't be going all out and renting a floor sander which is what I was referring to earlier unless my mom actually wants it to be all done perfectly. The deck I'm doing is in our backyard any ways and is only visible by us so I don't think she cares if it's a tad rough.

About the stain though, you wouldn't normally stain the boards before putting them on would you? Because there's really no way for it to be stained on the bottom while they're down and I noticed none of the boards I pulled up had any stain on the bottom (from when the deck was originally build). Thanks for the help btw.

--- End quote ---

It just means that whoever built your deck was lazy when they built it and never bothered to actually prep all of the boards prior to putting them in. I'd recommend screws over nails for decks, since screws are much easier for you to pull back up if you ever need to. Also your deck boards are much less likely to work loose and stub your foot on a nail that is sticking up. You don't need a hammer driver any corded/cordless drill will work. I was just commenting on how awesome that cordless drill set was. :P

If no one will ever see the deck its up to you on how much work you want to put into it. If that were the case I would just go all pressure treated and then you would never need to paint it. Then use the ceder somewhere else... Like making a sauna or something.

Sabb:

--- Quote from: Xrain on September 17, 2013, 09:33:11 AM ---It just means that whoever built your deck was lazy when they built it and never bothered to actually prep all of the boards prior to putting them in. I'd recommend screws over nails for decks, since screws are much easier for you to pull back up if you ever need to. Also your deck boards are much less likely to work loose and stub your foot on a nail that is sticking up. You don't need a hammer driver any corded/cordless drill will work. I was just commenting on how awesome that cordless drill set was. :P

If no one will ever see the deck its up to you on how much work you want to put into it. If that were the case I would just go all pressure treated and then you would never need to paint it. Then use the ceder somewhere else... Like making a sauna or something.

--- End quote ---
True, the nails are definitely sufficient though. Except the boards are a bitch to pry out so I do kind of wish they were screwed in but oh well. There are some minor disadvantages to using screws too however. Seems like an exaggeration but it actually allows the wood to rot a bit quicker where the screw is because the water collects ever so slightly in and around the screw head and over a long period of time causes rot to often start there. At least that's what I've been told by my shop teacher and have seen on the deck as well because there are a few screws in the deck where the boards join. At every single screw the rot was noticeably worse than any other point. Might be for some other reason but I can't think of another. They aren't sunk in too far either, just perfectly flush with the boards.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page